1. Engine Won't Start

• Dead Battery: Symptoms include a clicking sound when turning the key, dim lights, or no electrical power. Check battery terminals for corrosion, ensure they are tight. Test battery voltage; a healthy battery should read ~12.6V. Jump-start or replace the battery if necessary.

• Starter Motor Failure: A single loud click or no sound at all might indicate a faulty starter motor or solenoid.

• Fuel System Issues: Check if the fuel gauge is low. Listen for the fuel pump humming when the key is turned to the "ON" position. A clogged fuel filter or a failed fuel pump can prevent the engine from starting.

• Faulty Alternator: If the battery is repeatedly dead, the alternator may not be charging it while the engine runs. Test the alternator's output.

2. Loss of Power / Poor Performance

• Clogged Air Filter: A dirty air filter restricts airflow to the engine, reducing power and fuel efficiency. Inspect and replace regularly.

• Fuel Filter Issues: A clogged fuel filter restricts fuel flow, causing hesitation and power loss. Replace according to the manufacturer's schedule.

• Turbocharger Problems (if equipped): Loss of boost pressure (a whistling sound) can lead to significant power loss. Check for loose hoses, cracks in intercooler pipes, or turbo wear.

• Faulty Injectors: Dirty or malfunctioning fuel injectors can cause rough idling, misfires, and power loss.

3. Overheating Engine

• Low Coolant Level: The most common cause. Check the coolant reservoir when the engine is cool. Never open the radiator cap on a hot engine.

• Faulty Thermostat: A stuck-closed thermostat prevents coolant from circulating. Replace it.

• Radiator Issues: Check for external blockages (dirt, bugs) or internal clogging. Also, check for leaks.

• Water Pump Failure: A leaking water pump or a broken impeller will stop coolant circulation. Look for coolant leaks around the pump.

4. Abnormal Noises

• Squealing Belts: Often indicates a worn or loose serpentine/accessory belt. Inspect for cracks and adjust tension or replace the belt.

• Grinding Brakes: Usually means brake pads/shoes are worn out and metal is grinding on metal. Inspect and replace brakes immediately.

• Knocking from Engine: A deep knocking sound can indicate serious internal problems (e.g., worn bearings). Seek professional diagnosis immediately.

• Hissing: Often an air or vacuum leak. Check air hoses and lines for cracks or disconnections.

5. Braking Problems

• Soft or Spongy Brake Pedal: Often caused by air in the brake lines. Bleed the brake system.

• Pulling to One Side: Could be a seized brake caliper, a collapsed brake hose, or unevenly worn brake pads.

• Vibration When Braking: Usually warped brake rotors or drums. They may need to be machined or replaced.

6. Electrical Issues

• Blown Fuses: If multiple electrical components (lights, wipers) fail, check the fuse panel for blown fuses. Replace with a fuse of the same amperage.

• Faulty Lights: Check bulbs first. If a new bulb doesn't work, check the fuse, wiring, and grounds for that circuit.

• Alternator Warning Light: If this light illuminates, the charging system is faulty. Check the alternator and drive belt tension immediately to avoid a breakdown.

7. Tire Problems

• Uneven Tire Wear: Can be caused by improper inflation, misalignment, or worn suspension components. Regularly check tire pressure and get alignments as recommended.

• Frequent Blowouts: Often a result of under-inflation, overloading, or impact damage. Maintain correct pressure and inspect tires for damage.

8. Exhaust Smoke

• Black Smoke: Indicates unburned fuel (too much fuel, not enough air). Check air filter, fuel injectors, and turbocharger.

• Blue Smoke: Means the engine is burning oil. Could be caused by worn piston rings, valve seals, or a turbocharger seal leak.

• White Smoke (Sweet Smell): Indicates coolant entering the combustion chamber. Could be a blown head gasket or a cracked cylinder head/block.

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